Відео

Horrible stones. Lots of contaminants.

This came up in my feed. I use stones for metrology, an industrial application. Mostly the translucent. Would love to try a black. I buy the stones from Dan's solely due to their quality. Ready to go. Not being a sharpener, this is important.

I’m a late arrival at this party. Please can you show how you move the knife at the tip to keep the angle right? Thx

Opinels are a joy to sharpen. They've got the geometry in their favor. You'll never get a knife very sharp when it's thick and has a 30 degree factory bevel.

reddit is the lowest IQ forum in the world. Only children and losers on reddit these days. Burrfection is a tool as well. He seems like a nice guy but his videos are more misinformation than they are useful.

This was so nice to watch pro sharpen knife,i never tried to sharpen knife one handed

Nice Job! I will clean my aluminum oxide strop and load it with diamond spray from Stroppy Stuff. Thank you! 😎👍

the issue is knife bros on the internet like to talk and talk but don't actually do anything. so many comments from bozos claiming to be "hand sharpening for 70 years" yet they're impressed by skills a child could learn in a week. If you have even basic skills you should be able to get take a single sheet of dollar store 120 grit, or even 80 grit, and lay it down on some glass with some water and get an edge that will obviously be toothy but can do anything you'd ever want it to do, down to blowing through free hanging paper towels with ease with no more than maybe 2 strops on an ultra fine ie sub-micron abrasive just to clean it up a little. Shaving hair at the skin is a low bar. If a knife can't even do that, I'd consider it dull. Slicing paper isn't any kind of test of sharpness of a knife or keenness of an edge at all. No clue who so many seem to think it is. If your knife can't even slice paper, you have an issue. The only actual reasons to slice paper is because it's fun and satisfying, or because you want to quicky check if an edge has chips or rolls without having to visually inspect it. if you want to get good at deburring, try using stones are less friable. Friable stones do a lot of that work for you. But the ultimate test would be something like lapping films. They are not friable at all and unless you know what you're doing you're going to just flip that burr back and forth for an eternity. The key is learning how to sharpen without creating much of a burr in the first place. Shapton pro 220 and 320 are nice, hard, splash and go, silicon carbide stones but they are quite a bit more friable and wear faster than any other stone in the line including the 120 which is a very hard white alumina stone. The 220 is easily able to create keen but toothy edges. The 320 is fine enough to where you can get fine edges from it with some experience.

Can this same thing be done on bench stones?

Just ordered this stone after seeing this video. How do you keep it flat though ?

I also use an eraser, particularly to clean metal off of the rough side of the strop as it accumulates, instead of waiting until it has built up so much residue you can't make out the green paste color. However, I've discovered that Staedtler Mars Plastic erasers (available in stationary or crafts stores & often in stationary sections in pharmacies or supermarkets) works MUCH better & quicker. As the metal & compound collect on the eraser, clean it with the grit side of a common dishwashing sponge under running water & you can bring the eraser back to totally clean in a minute. I use the same type of metal straight-edge to remove heavily applied compound & finish also with a wire brush or stiff boar's hair brush to restore the fuzzy texture before applying 1-2 micron or 5-7 micron green wax on different strops. I use a heat gun on the leather & the end of the wax briefly & the wax goes on slicker than an egg passes through a loose goose. For the hide side, I use the blade from a box cutter knife - never scrape with the sharp edge into the leather, but scrape away. I will also use a touch of olive oil or mineral oil & shop towels if not serious enough to bring out the blade. I follow with 1000 grit & 2000 grit sandpaper if needed to make the hide look like new. I then use Dia-Paste 0.5 micron on the hide side for stropping my special knives to a maximum polish. I like the aluminum or chromium oxide low-micron paste on the rough, but use only diamond paste or spray on the hide. BTW, a bit of the heat gun while you are removing thick compound is also a help. I also strop all the time, so I rarely have to go through a full sharpening. Usually a 1000 grit diamond or Shapton ceramic is all I need to touch up the blade every month or two if I'm using it frequently. I have 300 & 600 grit diamonds for reprofiling or fixing chips.

I have Atomas, Trend, and now Ultra Sharp 2200 grit. Imo, the Ultra Sharp is the best of the group and so much so, I've ordered the 3000 grit but on a waiting list as most places are our of stock. The Shapton Pros, Naniwas, etc. along with the Dan's and the Natural Whetstone Washitas, have now taken a back seat. Ive done several test to arrive at this conclusion. It's difficult to test the validity of the grit numbers but I recently compared the 2200 to a 3000 Naniwa Pro and it was hands down Ultra Sharp.

Thank you.. that saves me so much effort. . Bartenders Friend with an eraser works like a f'kin bulldog .... Thanks again

amazing video! buying a shapton pro 320, 1500, and a rika 5k tomorrow used but seem fine for 100 bucks total which seems like a good deal to me (hope so), so I won't even try the higher grit stones until i can master this 320! thanks for the tips

Great video. Which of the Shapton pro would be equivalent to the Nan 3000 you were using? I think Shapton goes from 2k to 5k. Can't find a 4k.

What is the difference between the Naniwas and the Shapton ceramics? Can you sharpen all types of steel with the Naniwas?

Language is important! Someone new to sharpening might justly believe that the sharpening element is glass. This is not so. These "glass stones" are neither glass or stone. they are ceramic. The cutting is done by a ceramic that is fused to a glass plate.

They truly are the best. I own the 300, 600 and 1200 grit set. And they are by far the best stones I own. Not to mention the no questions asked lifetime warranty. You simply send you’re stone in and they send you a replacement. They are literally the best brand of diamond stones you can get. I think I’ll be skipping on the 2200 and going right for this 3000. Great video.

for k390 i go only up to 7/5 micron with no strop.. Its high carbide volume steel and making a mirror edge is totally pointless (imo) and at 7/5 the edge is amazing for any utility work , extremely sharp and great bite.. But i guess for testing the stones... Will work great... I love VENEV stones🙏❤ I have them 3 years , sharpened 100s of blades and they are like new (still almost 3mm layer)... They will last 2-3generations🙏

You shouldn't have chucked the old knife, could've converted it into a santoku

It looks like you are changing the knife from a Scandi grind to a flat grind in this video or am I missing something?

Great idea, thanks for sharing this.

Do you have plastic cases for those shaftons? Cheers of there’s anything other than the cardboard sleeves for my glass ones

Marttiini uses X46Cr13 @ 54hrc and X75Cr1 @ 56hrc. They come with a full scandi that is slightly convexed at the apex. Edge retention is on par with or slightly worse than a mora. Responds very well to a strop once you’ve removed the factory microconvex

I ruined a dmt while flattening a spyderco double stuff a few years ago. Their ceramic is so hard it will humble you. You’ve given me the confidence to flatten my ultra fine so I can use it for straight razer honing, I was about to give up on it knowing what happened last time

Chosera 800# and 3000# are really amazing stones.. 400# and 1000# are also great.. ❤enjoy it🙏

I got a used one of these several weeks ago with a clobbered edge. Not only rolled and dull but the factory bevels weren't very even. Truly long story short, reset most of the edge to 17 and was truly amazed at how sharp it was when finished. And why I wrote, I love the thing for those thinking about it. Really like the tint the steel takes on too, looks serious (and it is).

No doubt you have great technique and progression but just fyi digital scales give low readings on soft surfaces so normally better to use bess device on a hard surface. I think it measures based on how much its feet gets depressed into the device. But under a soft surface like nonslip mat, part of the force goes to the compression of the mat material. But regardless great job and pleasure to watch. I was thinking in between getting a sp 8k vs naniwa arata 5k (new 15mm chosera), leaning towards shapton. I have both choseras and kuromakus except those two. Naniwa pro/chosera/arata 5k is notorious for cracking so I'm thinking about sp 8k. Problem is I like toothy edges e.g. sp 2k or suehiro 3k so closest I found in higher grits was arashiyama 6k also able to produce toothy edge even on 6k. My sp 5k edge feels like it has no teeth when I use murray carter method for feeling the apex with my fingertips. Maybe a technique issue I can try again sometime. So not sure maybe a jnat or something can still give a toothy edge on higher refinements than 6k. And maybe suehiro 8k I also haven't tried. But suehiro stones usually have very high grip on the blade unlike shapton or naniwa, e.g. suehiro 3k grips like naniwa chosera 800, so probably suehiro 8k edge will be the toothiest among other mass produced synthetic stones. In case you find this topic interesting. Thanks for reading.

The handle has a contour to it that is different from the ones they have on their website now. Maybe they changed the design since this was a couple of years ago.

should have used a microscope to check the burr. this isn't reliable

cool vid man. is the 220 kuromaku also a combo of sic and aox? or just the 320? i got the 220. im guessing this norton cuts better. have you used the norton waterstones on 220 or 1k? i believe the 220 is sic also? anyway thanks.

Your sharpening process seems similar to mine in the details. I find that as time goes on I feel I can get a finer and finer than expected edge off very coarse stones. It actually feels easier to get a clean edge on cheaper stainless stuff like this to me on coarse stones, too.

hey buddy , hope all is well ? i've decided to make a new strop. i am actually going to use some 5mm thick stainless steel , it is soooooo flat , a bit heavy doesn't bother me. i,ve chose this because a lot of folk use stiff bass wood etc. do you use glue/impacy adhesive or double sided sticky tape ? i like the idea od double sided tape but would like recommendations , kind regards ian uk.

My knife is sharp and when I pass it on the leather it becomes not sharp on before Why?

I bought some DMT about 6 months ago and they still holding up for me, are some ppl having trouble with the new ones?

what did you spray on the thing?

I thought you wernt suppose slide the knife back and forth. Only 1 direction... ?

Once again, you come with clarity.......thanks.

Would you all recommend using a DMT for sharpening garden tools as opposed to knives?

...You'd be surprised how clean you can get a strop by just using olive oil and rubbing and scrubbing it with a paper towel.

I've done it that way from time to time but its not ideal. I lay thing down on a stone. or even the edge of a counter. Then I use it like an actual stone. Surprisingly decent results once the thing is broken in considering its coated abrasive. I'm not sure about the so called grit ratings tho. I think they likely all leave scratches of the same depth. I dont think I'd bother with the those spiderco branded ceramic stones tho. If it aint' diamond or cbn its not actually going to cut this steel, just burnish it and likely damage the exposed carbides in the process... better off just stropping on wood with 4 micron diamond or something along that line. Alternatively you could use something like that ceramic alumina stone to basically... gently expose more carbides proud from the matrix. Really in the weeds of mental illness at that point tho. For $250 I wouldn't suggest anyone get that knife. k390 is about the upper usable limit for these high resistance steel that boy brained edc nuts are obsessed with mostly cuz most of them don't know how to use or maintain a knife and think some shit is gonna be magic.

Hey I have 3 factory 2nds coming in the mail, is there anything I can do to help you test

What's your opinion on the 5 stone Lansky Sharpening kit? My Dad used one for years, and I have recently bought a new one from Lansky on line. I like the variation of stone grits plus the final honing stone. I have gotten a quality rescue knife(Spyderco VG-10) sharp enough to trim callouses off my fingers without cutting through the derma, using this kit. Takes a little time, depending on whether or not the apex was still good. But, I digress. What is your opinion?

I just wish some day I would get a Spyderco bench stone from the factory that wasn't as straight, level and true as a cross-eyed drunk that decided to machine then out during an earthquake. One UF Spydie bench stone, from the factory, was concave *_(very badly_* on one side and had a slight convex bulge on the other with the corners on that side being too low. I can not, for the life of me, understand how they even did that... Now, granted, that one was very egregious, but virtually every bench stone from Spyderco I've had issues with. Triangle rods? Never an issue, strangely enough.

Was thinning it necessary or something that was preferential? I just ordered a Henckles Santoku made in Spain because I thought it would be easier to sharpen.

Realize this is an old video but, I've got a Spyderco medium stone I've used tons now and can't seem to lap it back to (about) the factory finish. I've tried different grits of sandpaper and some 60 grit SIC powder. I'm always too coarse or totally smooth. What grit SIC powder would you recommend?

Wondering if a few pulls through the wine cork method might help after the edge trailing only passes?

Wow! So impressive!! 😯 I wanna try this later. so could you tell me what grit of your aluminum oxide bar compound is? there are several grades of grits in my country (#200~#400 and #1500), so I'm not sure what it is.

Average knives enjoyer’s ASMR

I use dry rubber. Works quite well too.